Sunday Roasts (9 page)

A simple herbed butter, scented with fresh tarragon and mint, is the big flavoring agent for this leg of lamb studded with slivers of orange peel. The butter is brushed over the lamb before roasting, then used to baste it while it is in the oven. Finally, this aromatic butter is combined with the pan drippings to make a flavorful sauce.

Serves 8

COST
: Moderate

PREP TIME
: 25 minutes, including making the butter

START-TO-FINISH TIME
: 2 hours, 20 minutes, including resting time for cooked meat

One 6½-lb/3-kg leg of lamb with bone, trimmed of excess fat

1 tbsp very thin, 1-in/2.5-cm-long strips of orange peel (see cooking tip), plus 2 tsp grated orange zest

Kosher salt

Freshly ground black pepper

2 tbsp olive oil

Spring-Herbs Butter

2 cups/480 ml dry red wine

1½ cups/360 ml reduced-sodium chicken broth

Fresh tarragon and mint sprigs, for garnish

1.
With a small, sharp knife, make 1-in-/2.5-cm-deep slits all over the lamb and insert 1 or 2 orange peel slivers into each. (The lamb can be studded 1 day ahead; cover with plastic wrap/cling film and refrigerate.)

2.
Arrange a rack at lower position and preheat the oven to 450°F/230°C/gas 8.

3.
Sprinkle the lamb with salt and pepper. Heat the oil in a large flameproof roasting pan/tray set over 2 burners on medium-high heat. When the oil is hot, brown the lamb on all sides, for 7 to 8 minutes. Remove the pan from the heat and brush all over with 2 tbsp of the Spring-Herbs Butter.

4.
Roast the lamb for 15 minutes, then brush with another 2 tbsp of the butter. Reduce the heat to 350°F/180°C/gas 4 and continue to roast the lamb until an instant-read thermometer inserted into thickest part of the meat registers 135 to 140°F/57 to 60°C for medium-rare, for about 55 minutes more. (Cooking time can vary depending on the thickness of the roast, so start to check the temperature after 30 minutes.) Transfer the lamb to a carving board, tent loosely with foil, and let rest for 30 minutes.

5.
Spoon off and discard any fat from the juices in the roasting pan/tray. Place the pan over high heat. Add the wine and broth and bring to a boil, whisking constantly to scrape up any browned bits on the bottom of the pan into the liquids. Boil until the sauce reduces to 2 cups/480 ml, for 5 minutes. Whisk in the remaining 4 tbsp/55 g herb butter and the orange zest. Season with salt and pepper.

6.
To serve, slice the lamb and arrange on a platter. Nap with some sauce and pass remaining sauce separately. Garnish with tarragon and mint sprigs.

SIDES
: Serve this beautiful leg of lamb with Spring Vegetables Tossed in Spring-Herbs Butter . The same butter is called for in both dishes. For a striking presentation, surround the roast with the vegetables.

LEFTOVER TIP
: Fill pita pockets with leftover slices of lamb along with some peppery watercress and thinly sliced cucumbers. Add a dollop of yogurt or mayo for a tasty sandwich.

COOKING TIP
: To make the orange peel slivers, use a vegetable peeler to peel strips from an orange, taking care to remove just the peel and not any of the bitter white pith beneath. If any white remains on the orange peel, scrape it off with a sharp knife. Cut the orange peel into thin julienne strips about 1 in/2.5 cm long.

If you want to serve a roast that’s stress-free, this boneless leg of lamb is the answer. It is placed in a self-sealing plastic bag, covered with a simple marinade for several hours, then roasted in about 30 minutes. Instead of a last-minute sauce, the succulent slices of lamb are served with a vibrant Mediterranean relish that can be assembled well ahead.

Serves 5 to 6

COST
: Moderate

PREP TIME
: 35 minutes, including making the Tomato-Olive Relish

START-TO-FINISH TIME
: 4 hours, 40 minutes to 9 hours, 40 minutes, including resting time for the cooked meat

1 boneless leg of lamb with a thin layer of fat, 2½ to 3 lb/1.2 to 1.4 kg, tied

½ cup/120 ml dry red wine

¼ cup/60 ml olive oil, plus more as needed

2 medium garlic cloves, smashed

1 tsp fennel seeds, crushed (see cooking tip)

½ tsp kosher salt

½ tsp freshly ground black pepper

Tomato-Olive Relish

1.
Place the lamb in a large, self-sealing plastic bag. In a medium bowl, stir together the wine, oil, garlic, fennel seeds, salt, and pepper. Pour the marinade over the lamb and seal. Refrigerate the lamb for 3 to 8 hours, turning occasionally.

2.
Arrange a rack at center position and preheat the oven to 400°F/200°C/gas 6.

3.
Remove the lamb from the marinade and pat dry with paper towels/absorbent paper. Heat enough olive oil to lightly coat the bottom of a large, heavy, ovenproof roasting pan/tray set over medium-high heat. When the oil is hot, add the lamb and brown on all sides, for 6 to 8 minutes. Place the lamb in the oven and roast it until a thermometer registers 130°F/55°C when inserted into the thickest part of the meat, for 35 to 45 minutes, depending on the size of the roast.

4.
Remove the lamb to a carving board and tent loosely with foil. Let rest for 15 minutes. Slice the meat into slices ½ in/12 mm thick, arrange them overlapping on a platter, and serve with Tomato-Olive Relish.

SIDES
: Best-Ever Mashed Potatoes Provencal Basil or the Creamy Goat Cheese and Thyme variations and sliced sautéed zucchini/courgette would make delicious garnishes for the lamb. You could also serve it with Sautéed Spinach , using goat cheese instead of the blue cheese, and some buttered couscous.

LEFTOVER TIP
: For sandwiches, slice leftover lamb thinly and place in pita pockets along with some of the relish and crumbled feta.

COOKING TIP
: To crush fennel seeds, place them in a self-sealing plastic bag and pound with a meat pounder or rolling pin. You can also crush them using a mortar and pestle or grind them in a small spice grinder.

A few years ago I was lucky enough to go on a boat trip around the Dalmatian coast. One of the ports of call was the Greek island of Corfu, and during a short visit there, I stopped for lunch in a little taverna. The menu was Greek to me, but my waiter, both bilingual and enthusiastic, helped out, suggesting a specialty of lamb and vegetables baked in a parchment/baking paper pouch. When the dish arrived, a packet tied in twine was set on a plate in front of me. When opened, it revealed piping-hot cubes of lamb and all manner of colorful roasted vegetables. One bite and I was in heaven! The meat was fork-tender, as were carrots, potatoes, and tomatoes. Juices from the lamb and the vegetables had been released during the long, slow cooking, and had combined to form a thin but wonderfully flavorful sauce. At home, I realized how practical this dish would be for entertaining. After the packages are filled and tied, they go into the oven for 2 hours of totally unattended roasting.

Serves 4

COST
: Moderate

PREP TIME
: 45 minutes

START-TO-FINISH TIME
: 2 hours, 50 minutes, including resting time for cooked meat

MATERIALS
: Parchment/baking paper Kitchen twine

1½ lb/680 g boneless leg of lamb, trimmed of excess fat and cut into 1-in/2.5-cm cubes

2 medium carrots, peeled and cut on the diagonal into slices ½ in/12 mm thick

½ medium onion, peeled and cut into 8 wedges

4 small red skin potatoes (1½ oz/40 g each), scrubbed but unpeeled, cut into ½-in/12-mm wedges

1 medium tomato, halved lengthwise and cut into ½-in/12-mm wedges

1 medium red bell pepper, halved, seeded, and deribbed, with halves cut into 1-in/2.5-cm pieces

8 large garlic cloves, peeled

¼ cup/7 g baby spinach leaves

1 tsp dried oregano

1 tsp dried crushed rosemary (see cooking tip)

1 tsp kosher salt

Freshly ground black pepper

8 tbsp/120 ml olive oil

Fresh rosemary sprigs, for garnish (optional)

1.
Cut out four 15-in/38-cm parchment/baking paper squares and place them on a work surface. Place one-fourth of the lamb cubes in the center of each square. Scatter one-fourth of the carrots, onion, potatoes, tomato, red pepper, and garlic cloves over the meat, then tuck one-fourth of the spinach leaves into each mixture. Sprinkle each portion with ¼ tsp oregano, ¼ tsp rosemary, ¼ tsp salt, and several grinds of black pepper, then drizzle each with 2 tbsp olive oil.

2.
Pull the corners of each paper square together to make a pouch, and then tie tightly with string. Place the pouches on a rimmed baking sheet/tray. (The pouches can be filled and tied 2 hours ahead. Refrigerate and bring to room temperature 30 minutes before baking.)

3.
Arrange a rack at center position and preheat the oven to 300°F/150°C/gas 2.

4.
Place the baking sheet/tray with the pouches in the oven and roast for 2 hours. Remove the baking sheet/tray from the oven and let the pouches cool for 5 minutes. Transfer each pouch to a dinner plate or shallow soup bowl. For serving, untie the strings and spread open the papers. Garnish each serving with 1 or 2 rosemary sprigs, if desired.

SIDES
: A classic Greek salad of crisp greens, olives, onions, tomatoes, and crumbled feta, plus some good crusty bread for sopping up the sauce, are all you need as accompaniments to this Corfu specialty.

LEFTOVER TIP
: Reheat lamb and vegetables and serve atop warm couscous.

When I included this Moroccan-style braised lamb in a cooking class, students were crazy about the melange of interesting flavors. Dates and brown sugar add sweetness, green olives and capers lend a salty note, and wine and vinegar provide a bit of tartness. After close to two hours in the oven, the lamb is so tender it practically falls off the bone.

Serves 4

COST
: Moderate

PREP TIME
: 15 minutes

START-TO-FINISH TIME
: 2 hours, 15 minutes

2 tbsp olive oil

3½ to 4 lb/1.6 to 1.8 kg lamb shanks (see market note)

1 tbsp ground cumin

1 tbsp kosher salt

1 tbsp coarsely ground black pepper

2 tsp dried thyme

3 bay leaves, broken in half

2 sprigs plus 3 tbsp minced flat-leaf parsley

2/3 cup/98 g green Mediterranean olives, pitted or unpitted

1/3 cup/85 g capers with a little of their juice

1 cup/240 ml dry red wine

1/3 cup/75 ml red wine vinegar

1/3 cup/65 g light brown sugar

16 large Medjool dates, unpitted

¼ tsp harissa or 2 pinches of hot pepper flakes (see market note)

1.
Arrange a rack at center position and preheat the oven to 375°F/190°C/gas 5.

2.
Heat the oil in a large nonreactive, deep-sided pot (with a lid) set over medium-high heat. When hot, add the lamb shanks and brown on all sides, for 4 to 5 minutes. Remove the pot from the heat.

3.
In a small bowl, mix together the cumin, salt, pepper, and thyme, then sprinkle this mixture over the browned lamb. Add the bay leaves, parsley sprigs, olives, and capers to the pot. Pour the wine and vinegar over the lamb, and then sprinkle the brown sugar over the mixture. Cover the pot tightly with a double thickness of foil, then with the lid.

4.
Roast for 45 minutes, then remove the pot from the oven and turn the meat. Add the dates, cover again with the foil and lid, and continue to cook until the meat is fork-tender, for about 50 to 60 minutes more.

5.
Remove the pot from the oven and uncover it. Stir in the harissa and 1½ cups/120 ml water. (The lamb can be prepared 2 days ahead. Cool, then cover the pot with the foil and lid, and refrigerate. Reheat, covered with foil and lid, in a 375°F/190°C/gas 5 oven until hot, for about 25 minutes.)

6.
To serve, arrange the lamb shanks in a bowl or on a platter. Ladle the sauce with dates and olives over the lamb, and then sprinkle with minced parsley. With a sharp knife, slice the lamb shanks before serving. Be sure to let everyone know that there are pits in the dates and in the olives if you used unpitted ones.

SIDES
: Serve this lamb with a bowl of couscous prepared with a generous pinch of saffron or turmeric, and a green salad with fresh orange segments tossed in lemon juice and olive oil.

LEFTOVER TIP
: You can quickly reheat any remaining lamb shanks in the microwave. They taste even better a day or two after the initial cooking.

MARKET NOTES
: Lamb shanks can vary in size, weighing anywhere from 12 to 14 oz/340 to 400 g to more than 1 lb/455 g each. Either size will work in this recipe as long as you have 3½ to 4 lb/1.6 to 1.8 kg total. The cooking time should be about the same for both.

Harissa, a paste of hot pureed peppers and spices used in Moroccan and North African cooking, is sold in specialty food stores.