Sunday Roasts (4 page)

The same cut that is called for in the Perfect Sunday Roast gets a totally new treatment in this version. The meat is coated with an assertive mixture of coarsely ground black pepper and butter, which helps baste the beef as it roasts. When done, the rosy pink, extra-juicy slices are topped with dollops of Horseradish Crème Fraîche. Its piquant flavor stands up well to the beef, and it has an unexpectedly light texture.

Serves 6 to 8

COST
: Moderate

PREP TIME
: 15 minutes

START-TO-FINISH TIME
: 1 hour, 50 minutes, including resting time for cooked meat

Horseradish Crème Fraîche

½ cup/120 ml heavy/double cream

½ cup/120 ml crème fraîche (see cooking tip)

¼ cup/60 ml prepared horseradish (not horseradish sauce), drained, plus more if needed

3 tbsp minced shallots

2 tbsp capers, drained and coarsely chopped

2 tbsp minced fresh chives

1 tsp Dijon mustard

Kosher salt

Freshly ground black pepper

Roast

Vegetable oil, for greasing the roasting pan/tray

One 4-lb/1.8-kg boneless top sirloin roast (see market note)

Kosher salt

4 tbsp/55 g unsalted butter, at room temperature

2 large garlic cloves, minced

1 tbsp coarsely ground black pepper

FOR THE CRÈME FRAÎCHE:

With an electric mixer on medium-high speed, whip the heavy/double cream until stiff peaks form. In a medium, nonreactive bowl, whisk together the crème fraîche, horseradish, shallots, capers, 1½ tbsp of the chives, mustard, ¼ tsp salt, and ¼ tsp pepper. Gently fold in the whipped cream. Season with more salt and pepper if needed. Transfer to a small serving bowl and sprinkle with remaining chives. (Horseradish crème fraîche can be prepared 3 hours ahead; cover and refrigerate. Bring to room temperature for 10 minutes before serving.)

FOR THE ROAST:

1.
Arrange a rack at center position and preheat the oven to 450°F/230°C/gas 8.

2.
Lightly oil the bottom of a medium flameproof roasting pan/tray and stand the roast, fat-side up, in the center of the pan (see cooking tip). Sprinkle generously with salt. Combine the butter, garlic, pepper, and ¼ tsp salt in a small bowl and mix well. Pat the butter mixture over the top and partway down the rounded sides (not the big flat ends) of the roast.

3.
Roast the meat for 15 minutes, then reduce the heat to 350°F/180°C/gas 4 and roast until a thermometer inserted into the center of the meat registers 130 to 135°F/55 to 57°C, for 50 to 60 minutes. When done, remove the roast to a cutting board; let rest for 20 minutes.

4.
Cut the roast, crosswise against the grain, into slices ¼ in/6 mm thick and arrange on a serving platter. Garnish each slice with a generous dollop of crème fraîche before serving.

SIDES
: Best-Ever Mashed Potatoes with Buttermilk– Country Mustard variation and roasted or blanched asparagus are perfect sides for this roast.

LEFTOVER TIP
: For tempting sandwiches, use a baguette or a crusty peasant loaf, top with sliced beef, spread with Horseradish Crème Fraîche, and then add some spinach or red leaf lettuce leaves.

MARKET NOTE
: Ask your butcher for a roast cut from the top portion of the sirloin. These are more tender and sometimes referred to as “spoon roasts.”

COOKING TIPS
: Crème fraîche is available in many supermarkets, but if you can’t find it, it’s easy to prepare. Whisk together 1 cup/240 ml heavy/double cream with 1/3 cup/75 ml sour cream in a nonreactive bowl, and let rest at room temperature for 6 hours or longer until mixture thickens. Cover and refrigerate for up to 5 days.

This particular cut of beef sometimes tips over as it roasts. To prevent this, you might want to use a roasting rack with sides that you can adjust to steady the meat.

What really makes this “meat-and-potatoes dish” special is the mouthwatering béarnaise butter that flavors both. A simple and quick version of classic béarnaise sauce, it is spooned atop the rosy-hued slices of strip loin and also incorporated into the warm fingerlings. Redolent of tarragon, this distinctive butter elevates both the roast and its potato garnish to new heights.

Serves 6

COST
: Splurge

PREP TIME
: 35 minutes, including making the butter

START-TO-FINISH TIME
: 1 hour, 35 minutes, including resting time for cooked meat

Roast

1 New York strip loin roast, 3 to 3½ lb/1.4 to 1.6 kg (also called a top loin; see market note)

Kosher salt

Freshly ground black pepper

Smashed Fingerlings

3 lb/1.4 kg red-skin fingerling or baby red-skin potatoes, unpeeled, scrubbed, cut into 1-in/2.5-cm pieces

Quick and Easy Béarnaise Butter

½ cup/120 ml whole milk, warm, plus more if needed

Kosher salt

Freshly ground black pepper

1 tbsp minced flat-leaf parsley, for garnish

1 tbsp minced fresh tarragon, for garnish

FOR THE ROAST:

1.
Arrange a rack at center position and preheat the oven to 450°F/230°C/gas 8.

2.
Pat the beef dry with paper towels/absorbent paper. Salt and pepper the meat generously on all sides. Place the roast, fat-side up, on a rack in a large, heavy roasting pan/tray.

3.
Roast the meat for 15 minutes, then reduce the heat to 350°F/180°C/gas 4, and roast until a thermometer inserted into the center of the meat registers 135°F/57°C, for about 30 minutes more. Remove from the oven and transfer to a carving board. Tent with foil and let rest for 15 to 20 minutes.

FOR THE SMASHED FINGERLINGS:

1.
While the meat is in the oven, put the potatoes in a large pot and add enough water to cover them by 1 in/2.5 cm. Bring to a boil; cook until tender when pierced with a knife, for about 15 minutes. Drain and return the potatoes to the pot.

2.
Add ½ cup/115 g of the béarnaise butter to the potatoes and smash coarsely with a potato masher. Add ½ cup/120 ml warm milk; stir to blend. Add more milk by tablespoons as needed if dry. Season with salt and pepper. (Potatoes can be prepared 2 hours ahead. Let rest at room temperature. Reheat before serving, adding more warm milk by tablespoonfuls as needed if dry.)

3.
Slice the roast crosswise into slices 1/3 in/8 mm thick and arrange on a platter with a bowl of the remaining béarnaise butter by its side. Mound the potatoes in a serving bowl and sprinkle with parsley and tarragon. Serve each portion of sliced beef with a generous dollop of béarnaise butter and some potatoes.

SIDES
: Either 5-Minute Roasted Sugar Snap Peas or Honey-Glazed Carrots and Parsnips would make a delicious garnish to the roast and smashed potatoes.

LEFTOVER TIP
: For a great sandwich, slather any remaining béarnaise butter on a crusty baguette and top with any leftover sliced beef and some sliced tomatoes.

MARKET NOTE
: A New York strip loin roast will have a layer of fat on one side; it is important to not trim this fat as it helps keep the meat moist while it roasts.

The testers for this book were crazy about this recipe, almost all commenting that they were thrilled to have a new way to prepare this popular cut. They were surprised to learn that you can easily butterfly, stuff, roll, and tie a flank steak so that it is transformed into a roast. For this version, a large flank steak is marinated in lime juice and olive oil, and then stuffed with a homemade corn bread filling studded with bits of chorizo, sweet orange bell peppers, and cilantro. When roasted and carved, the colorful corn bread layer makes an impressive visual counterpoint to the beautiful pink of the meat.

Serves 6

COST
: Moderate

PREP TIME
: 20 minutes for preparing the steak, plus 35 minutes for preparing the stuffing while the meat is marinating for 2 hours

START-TO-FINISH TIME
: About 3 hours, including resting time for cooked meat

MATERIALS
: Kitchen twine

Roast

One 1½-lb/690-g flank steak, about ¾ in/2 cm thick, butterflied (see market note)

1/3 cup/75 ml olive oil

2 tbsp fresh lime juice

½ tsp ground cumin

½ tsp kosher salt

¼ tsp red pepper flakes

Several grinds black pepper

2 medium garlic cloves, smashed

Stuffing

2 cups/110 g corn bread crumbs made from Quick Skillet Corn Bread

1 tbsp olive oil

3 oz/85 g finely diced Spanish chorizo (see market note)

½ cup/65 g chopped onion

½ cup/65 g diced orange or red bell pepper/capsicum

¼ cup/8 g minced cilantro/fresh coriander

½ tsp ground cumin

Kosher salt

Freshly ground black pepper

1 large egg, lightly beaten

FOR THE ROAST:

1.
Place the butterflied flank steak on a long sheet of plastic wrap/cling film on a work surface. Cover with another sheet of plastic wrap/cling film, and pound with a meat pounder or rolling pin until the meat is about ¼ in/6 mm thick.

2.
Whisk together the olive oil, lime juice, cumin, salt, red pepper flakes, and black pepper in a large, shallow nonreactive dish. Add the garlic cloves and then the flank steak, turning to coat well. Cover with plastic wrap/cling film and refrigerate for 2 hours or longer.

FOR THE STUFFING
:

1.
Put the corn bread crumbs in a large mixing bowl. Heat the olive oil in a medium, heavy frying pan over medium heat. When hot, add the chorizo, onion, and bell pepper/capsicum. Stir and cook until chorizo is lightly browned and vegetables are softened, for about 5 minutes. Add to the corn bread crumbs and mix well. Stir in the cilantro/fresh coriander and cumin; season with salt and pepper. Cool completely, and then mix in the egg.

2.
Remove the flank steak from the marinade, scraping off any excess, and place it on a work surface. Reserve the marinade, discarding the garlic. Salt and pepper the steak, then pat the stuffing very compactly in an even layer on the steak, leaving a 1-in/2.5-cm border all around. With a long side in front of you, roll the meat tightly into a cylinder and tie at 1-in/2.5-cm intervals. (The flank steak can be prepared 4 hours ahead; cover and refrigerate. Refrigerate the marinade separately. Bring both to room temperature for 30 minutes before roasting.)

3.
Arrange a rack at center position and preheat the oven to 350°F/180°C/gas 4.

4.
Place the flank steak in a shallow roasting pan/tray, and pour the reserved marinade over it. Roast for 30 minutes, basting twice with pan juices, or until the center of the meat is rosy pink when pierced with a small sharp knife. Remove and tent loosely with foil and let rest for 15 minutes. Cut into slices ½ in/12 mm thick and serve.

SIDES
: Corn on the cob and a sliced tomato and avocado salad would make tempting sides to this special roast with its assertive Southwestern flavors.

LEFTOVER TIP
: Slices of this flank steak are delicious served at room temperature. Add a green salad tossed in lime juice and olive oil for a light lunch or supper.

MARKET NOTES
: When you buy the flank steak, use your most persuasive and polite voice to ask the butcher to butterfly it for you. If you butterfly it yourself, use a long, sharp knife and starting at a long side, cut the meat horizontally, almost but not quite all the way through, so it will open like a book.

Chorizo is a highly seasoned pork sausage available in both Spanish and Mexican varieties. For this recipe, use the firmer Spanish type, which is made with smoked pork that is already cooked, not the Mexican one, which is prepared with fresh pork enclosed in a casing.

It’s the tantalizing sauce, layered with multiple flavors, that makes this roast so distinctive. Sweet, caramelized shallots and salty bits of bacon are added to a reduction of port and broth to form its foundation. At serving time, juicy slices of tenderloin are napped with this smooth, silky mixture.

Serves 6

COST
: Splurge

PREP TIME
: 40 minutes

START-TO-FINISH TIME
: 2 hours, including resting time for cooked meat

12 oz/340 g (about 12) large shallots, peeled and halved lengthwise

1½ tbsp olive oil

Kosher salt

Freshly ground black pepper

3 cups/720 ml reduced-sodium beef broth

¾ cup/180 ml Tawny port (see market note)

1½ tsp tomato paste/puree

One 3-lb/1.4-kg trimmed center cut beef tenderloin

1 tsp dried thyme

4 bacon/streaky bacon slices (about 4 oz/115 g), coarsely chopped

3 tbsp unsalted butter, at room temperature

½ tbsp flour

1 bunch watercress

1.
Arrange a rack at center position and preheat the oven to 375°F/190°C/gas 5.

2.
In a medium roasting pan/tray (a 9-in/23-cm pie plate will also work), toss the shallots with the oil to coat, and season with salt and pepper. Roast until the shallots are deep brown and very tender, stirring occasionally, for 30 to 40 minutes or longer. Remove, but retain oven temperature.

3.
Boil the broth and the port in a medium saucepan until reduced to about 1½ cups/360 ml, for 20 to 25 minutes. Whisk in the tomato paste/puree. (Both shallots and broth mixture can be prepared 1 day ahead. Cover separately and refrigerate.)

4.
Pat the beef dry and sprinkle with thyme, salt, and pepper. In a medium roasting pan/tray set over medium heat, sauté the bacon until golden, for 4 minutes or more, then transfer it with a slotted spoon to paper towels/absorbent paper to drain. Increase the heat to medium-high and add the tenderloin to the pan. Brown well on all sides, for about 7 minutes. Transfer the pan to the oven and roast until a meat thermometer inserted into the thickest part of the roast reads 135°F/57°C for medium-rare, for about 45 minutes. Transfer the meat to a platter and tent loosely with foil. Let rest for 15 to 20 minutes.

5.
Skim and discard any fat from the pan juices, then set the roasting pan/tray over high heat. Add the broth-port mixture and bring to a boil, scraping up the browned bits on the bottom of the pan. Mix ½ tbsp of the butter and the flour in a small bowl to make a smooth paste. Whisk the paste into the simmering liquids and simmer the sauce until slightly thickened, for 3 to 4 minutes.

6.
Whisk the remaining butter into the sauce, and then stir in the shallots and bacon. Season the sauce with salt and pepper.

7.
Cut the tenderloin into slices ½ in/12 mm thick and arrange on a platter. Spoon some sauce over the slices and put the remaining sauce in a small bowl to pass. Garnish the platter with watercress and serve.

SIDES
: Spoon some of the delectable sauce over Best-Ever Mashed Potatoes and complete the offerings with Honey-Glazed Carrots and Parsnips .

LEFTOVER TIP
: A warm open-faced sandwich made with slices of this special roast would be a real treat. Toast bread slices (a good sourdough is particularly nice), then top with thin slices of roast, and finally nap with leftover sauce.

MARKET NOTE
: There are four types of port: Vintage, Tawny, Ruby, and White. You don’t need to use the most expensive, which is the Vintage. The ready-to-drink Tawny, which is the same color as its name, is a good moderately priced choice, but if it is not available, you can use a less expensive Ruby port.