Sunday Roasts (21 page)

There are more ways to use rhubarb than in a fruit pie. It’s absolutely delicious prepared as a savory condiment. When spring rhubarb appears, I dice the deep-pink stalks and cook them in a mixture of sugar, vinegar, and aromatic spices until they turn into a thick, glistening chutney.

Makes about 4 cups/1.1 kg

COST
: Inexpensive

PREP TIME
: 20 minutes

START-TO-FINISH TIME
: 30 minutes, plus 1 hour, 15 minutes for the chutney to chill

1 cup/200 g plus 2 tbsp sugar

½ cup/120 ml red wine vinegar

2 cinnamon sticks, broken in half

1½ tbsp minced fresh ginger

1½ tsp grated orange zest

Scant ½ tsp ground cardamom

4½ cups (about 1¾ lb)/ 800 g rhubarb, trimmed and cut into ½-in/12-mm dice

¾ cup/120 g dried currants

4 green/spring onions including all but 2 in/5 cm of green stems, chopped

1.
In a large, heavy saucepan, place the sugar, vinegar, cinnamon stick halves, ginger, orange zest, and cardamom and set over medium heat. Cook, stirring, until the sugar dissolves and the mixture comes to a boil.

2.
Add the rhubarb, currants and green/spring onions; bring to a boil again. Reduce the heat and simmer until the rhubarb is tender but not falling apart, for about 4 minutes. Cool to room temperature and discard the cinnamon stick halves. Cover and refrigerate the chutney until it is cold and thickened, for at least 1 hour. (The chutney can be made up to 2 days ahead; keep refrigerated. Bring to room temperature before serving.)

SERVE WITH
: This versatile chutney accompanies the Ham with an Orange Marmalade Glaze and Rhubarb Chutney and also makes an ideal garnish to roasted lamb, pork, chicken, or turkey.

This deep crimson chutney is a favorite of my students. I’ve included it more than once in my Thanksgiving classes, and each time it turned out to be one of the most popular dishes on the menu. Everyone loves the balance of flavors--the sweetness of the cherries countered by the tartness of the cranberries.

Makes about 2 cups/585 g

COST
: Inexpensive

PREP TIME
: 10 minutes

START-TO-FINISH TIME
: 25 minutes, plus 2 hours for the chutney to chill

1 cup/200 g granulated sugar

2 cups/225 g fresh cranberries

½ cup/80 g dried cherries

2 tbsp cider vinegar

1 tbsp light brown sugar

2½ tsp minced fresh ginger

1 cinnamon stick, broken in half

2 tsp grated orange zest

1.
In a medium, heavy saucepan combine 1 cup/240 ml water and the granulated sugar and set over medium-high heat. Stir until the sugar has dissolved, and then bring the mixture to a boil without stirring.

2.
Add the cranberries, cherries, vinegar, brown sugar, ginger, and cinnamon stick halves and stir to mix. Bring the mixture to a simmer, then lower the heat slightly and cook until the mixture just starts to thicken, for 6 to 7 minutes. Remove the pan from the heat and stir in the orange zest. Using tongs or a slotted spoon, carefully remove and discard the cinnamon stick halves. Cool the mixture to room temperature, then cover and refrigerate for 2 hours so that the chutney will thicken. (The chutney can be prepared 3 days ahead; serve chilled or bring to room temperature for 30 minutes before serving.)

SERVE WITH
: This chutney is a fabulous garnish for Golden Cider-Roasted Turkey ; “Never Fail” Roast Turkey with Shallot Pan Gravy ; and Turkey Breast with Cremini, Porcini, and Pancetta Stuffing .

Fresh, juicy orange segments are accented with peppery bits of ginger in this cool, bracing relish. Julienned red bell peppers and sliced red onions add both color and crunch to the mix. The success of this dish depends on knowing how to cut attractive segments from the oranges, so be sure to follow the guidelines for best results.

Makes about 2 cups/400 g

COST
: Inexpensive

PREP TIME
: 20 minutes

START-TO-FINISH TIME
: 40 minutes

3 large navel oranges

½ cup/65 g red bell pepper/capsicum cut into fine julienne 1 in/2.5 cm long

½ cup/65 g thinly sliced red onion cut into strips 1 to 2 in/2.5 to 5 cm long

2½ tbsp minced cilantro/fresh coriander

2 tsp minced fresh ginger

2 tsp toasted sesame oil

½ tsp kosher salt

¼ tsp red pepper flakes

1.
Grate enough zest from the oranges to yield 2 tsp and set aside. Starting at the top and using a good sharp knife, slice off the skin and white pith from each orange in strips, moving around the orange in a circular fashion. The pith is bitter so you want to make certain that all traces are cut off. Working over a medium, nonreactive bowl, remove the orange segments by holding the knife perpendicular to the peeled orange and cutting from the top to the bottom along one side of the membranes that enclose each segment. Repeat cutting along the membrane on the other side of the segment. The segment will slip out easily at this point.

2.
Add the orange zest, bell pepper/capsicum, onion, cilantro/fresh coriander, ginger, sesame oil, salt, and red pepper flakes and gently mix with the orange segments. (The relish can be prepared 1 hour ahead; keep at cool room temperature.)

SERVE WITH
: This relish is called for in the Salmon Side with Fresh Orange-Ginger Relish , and would also be a fine partner to roasted pork or chicken.

The flavors of the Mediterranean shine through in this enticing condiment prepared with grape tomatoes, kalamata olives, and seasonings of fresh basil and rosemary. This relish packs a big punch of flavor, but is surprisingly and pleasingly low in calories.

Makes about 1¾ cups/275 g

COST
: Moderate

PREP TIME
: 20 minutes

START-TO-FINISH TIME
: 25 minutes

1 cup grape tomatoes, quartered lengthwise into thin slivers, but not seeded (5 oz/180 g)

½ cup pitted kalamata olives, cut lengthwise into thin slivers (2½ oz/75 g)

3 tbsp minced fresh basil

2 tsp minced fresh rosemary

1½ tbsp drained capers

1½ tsp fennel seeds, crushed

Scant ¼ tsp red pepper flakes

Combine the tomatoes, olives, basil, rosemary, capers, fennel seeds, and red pepper flakes in a medium, nonreactive serving bowl and mix well. (The relish can be prepared 3 hours ahead; cover and leave at cool room temperature.)

SERVE WITH
: This relish is good with roast lamb, veal, and chicken. Savor it with Boneless Leg of Lamb with Tomato-Olive Relish and Summertime Olive-Studded Roast Veal .

My friend Matt Sunderland, a talented chef who often teaches cooking classes with me, created this delectable condiment. A sauté of fresh corn kernels, bell pepper, and onion is combined with tomatoes and a hint of lime. The salsa can be prepared several hours ahead and will actually improve in flavor as it rests.

Makes about 1½ cups/315 g

COST
: Inexpensive

PREP TIME
: 20 minutes

START-TO-FINISH TIME
: 30 minutes

2 tbsp olive oil

1 cup/145 g fresh corn kernels (from 2 large ears)

¼ cup/40 g finely diced red bell pepper/capsicum

¼ cup/40 g chopped red onion

½ cup/100 g finely diced tomatoes, unpeeled with seeds and pulp removed

1 tbsp fresh lime juice, plus more as needed

½ tsp ground cumin

Kosher salt

Freshly ground black pepper

1/8 to ¼ tsp red pepper flakes

2 tbsp minced cilantro/fresh coriander

1.
Heat 1 tbsp of the oil in a medium frying pan over medium heat until hot. Add the corn and sauté, stirring often, until the kernels begin to brown, for about 4 minutes. Add the red bell pepper/capsicum and onion and sauté, stirring, for 2 minutes more. Remove to a nonreactive bowl.

2.
Add the tomatoes, lime juice, cumin, ½ tsp salt, several grinds of black pepper, red pepper flakes, and the remaining oil. Mix well. (The salsa can be prepared 6 hours ahead. Cover and refrigerate. Bring to room temperature for 30 minutes before using.) At serving time, stir in the cilantro/fresh coriander and season the salsa with salt and an extra squeeze of lime juice if desired.

SERVE WITH
: This salsa makes a great garnish for roasted poultry, pork, and fish. It’s a great partner to Chipotle-Rubbed Turkey Breast with Fresh Corn Salsa and Swordfish Steaks with Fresh Corn Salsa .

Fresh diced peaches and chopped red onion are the primary ingredients in this vibrant salsa. Lime juice and zest along with minced jalapeños provide tart and hot notes respectively. Make this salsa in the summer when peaches are sweet and in their prime.

Makes about 1¾ cups/280 g

COST
: Inexpensive

PREP TIME
: 20 minutes

START-TO-FINISH TIME
: 50 minutes, including 30 minutes for the salsa to marinate

3 medium yellow peaches, ripe but not too soft

1/3 cup/60 g chopped red onion

3 tbsp minced cilantro/fresh coriander, plus sprigs for garnish

1½ tsp grated lime zest and 2 tsp fresh lime juice, plus more juice as needed

2 tsp minced garlic

1 to 2 tsp minced jalapeño pepper, seeds and membranes removed

Kosher salt

Freshly ground black pepper

Peel the peaches (see cooking tip), and cut into ½-in/12-mm or smaller dice. Put in a medium, nonreactive bowl with the onion, cilantro/fresh coriander, lime zest and juice, garlic, jalapeño pepper, and ¼ tsp each salt and black pepper. Taste and, if desired, add additional salt and black pepper and up to 1 tsp more lime juice for a sharper taste. Marinate the salsa for at least 30 minutes. (Salsa can be prepared 2 hours ahead; leave at cool room temperature.)

COOKING TIP
: To peel the peaches, bring a medium saucepan of water to a boil. Add the peaches for 60 seconds, then remove them with a slotted spoon and drain. When cool enough to handle, cut an X on the bottom of each peach and peel the skins off with a sharp paring knife.

SERVE WITH
: This salsa accompanies Cumin-Rubbed Pork Tenderloins with Fresh Peach Salsa and would also taste delicious with roast chicken or lamb.

There’s something about this particular guacamole that makes me return to it time and again. Simple and quick, its balance of flavors and contrast of textures result in a very tempting combo. The testers for this book repeatedly voiced their delight with this recipe, declaring it one of their all-time favorite guacamoles. The avocados are diced, not mashed as in classic versions, then combined with chopped tomatoes and tossed in a piquant lime dressing scented with cumin.

Makes about 2½ cups/590 g

COST
: Inexpensive

PREP TIME
: 10 minutes

START-TO-FINISH TIME
: 25 minutes

2 ripe avocados, soft but not mushy, cut into ¼- to ½-in/6- to 12-mm dice

2 large ripe plum tomatoes (about 6 oz/170 g total)

One 3-in-/7.5-cm-long jalapeño pepper

2 tbsp fresh lime juice

2 tbsp chopped shallots

2 tbsp minced cilantro/fresh coriander

1½ tsp ground cumin

½ tsp kosher salt

2 tbsp olive or vegetable oil

1.
Put the avocados in a nonreactive mixing bowl. Halve the tomatoes, seed and stem them, then cut into ½-in/12-mm dice. Add to the mixing bowl.

2.
Wearing rubber gloves, halve the jalapeño lengthwise and scrape out the seeds and veins. Mince the jalapeño and add to the bowl.

3.
In a separate small bowl, mix together the lime juice, shallots, cilantro/fresh coriander, cumin, and salt. Whisk in the oil. Pour over the avocados and tomatoes and mix gently so that the avocados do not get mashed. Taste and add more salt if needed.

4.
If not using immediately, cover the surface with plastic wrap/cling film and leave at room temperature for up to 1 hour. (The salsa can also be refrigerated for up to 4 hours. Bring to room temperature for 30 minutes before serving.)

SERVE WITH
: This is used as a topping for Roasted Cod with Tomatoes and Chunky Guacamole Salsa and it could be offered instead of the corn salsa as a garnish for Chipotle-Rubbed Turkey Breast with Fresh Corn Salsa .

This butter is a riff on classic béarnaise sauce and takes far less time and expertise to execute. For the latter, a cooked reduction of white wine vinegar, minced shallots, and tarragon is combined with egg yolks, and then cooked gently while melted butter is slowly incorporated. In this much easier version, a seasoned vinegar reduction needs only to be stirred into some softened butter. Unlike the sauce, which is a last-minute operation, béarnaise butter can be conveniently prepared a day ahead.

Makes about 1 cup/225 g

COST
: Moderate

PREP TIME
: 20 minutes

START-TO-FINISH TIME
: 30 minutes

½ cup/50 g chopped shallots

½ cup/120 ml white wine vinegar

3½ tbsp/6 g minced fresh tarragon

3½ tbsp/6 g minced flat-leaf parsley

¾ cup plus 2 tbsp/200 g unsalted butter, at room temperature

Kosher salt

Coarsely ground black pepper

½ tsp grated lemon zest

1.
Place the shallots, vinegar, half of the tarragon, and half of the parsley in a small saucepan. Simmer over medium-high heat until the vinegar has reduced to about 2 tbsp, for 3 to 4 minutes. Strain the mixture into a small bowl, pressing down on the solids to release any liquid. Discard the solids and cool the tarragon vinegar to room temperature.

2.
Using a table fork, mix the butter, remaining tarragon and parsley, ½ tsp salt, several grinds of pepper, and lemon zest in a medium, nonreactive bowl. A little at a time, mix in the cooled tarragon vinegar. Continue to mix until the vinegar has been almost completely absorbed into the butter. Season with additional salt and pepper if desired. (The butter can be prepared 1 day ahead. Cover and refrigerate. Bring to room temperature before using.)

SERVE WITH
: This butter accompanies the New York Strip Loin with Béarnaise Butter and Smashed Fingerlings and would be delicious served mounded atop slices of roast lamb or chicken as well.